A week in Mangystau, Western Kazakhstan.

In 2012 I’d visited Azerbaijan. It had been a last minute decision, tacking it onto a visit to Georgia.

I remember my first morning, stumbling to a hotel in the capital Baku, and then walking out to catch my first glimpse of the Caspian Sea. I’d been to Uzbekistan a few years prior, but the rest of Central Asia was a mystery to me. I had a vague notion of Kazakhstan and Turkeminstan on the opposite shores, but hadn’t given much thought to visiting.

This year, I finally spent some time in the former, and have plans next year to spend a lot more time in the area. This year, after three weeks in Almaty, I decided to spend a week touring the

— 29 Apr to 3 May 2026
Day six, afternoon

The Bozzhyra tract & fangs.