Galapagos: Following Darwin’s trail.
A story in seven chapters.
In 2022 I had the good fortune to board The Grace for a week cruising the Galapagos islands. We toured the western islands, going a few days seeing only one or two other ships anchored in various bays. It was a dream come true, even as it felt we were living in a dream. Everything you’ve heard heard about the animals there is true. And then some.
–February 15-22, 2022
1.
In which we meet our fellow passengers
The alarm went off at 4am; Alejandra was picking us up at 5. Our flight wasn’t to leave until 7:40, but we were told to arrive at the airport two hours before the flight was to leave and we had resigned ourselves to complying with instructions.
2.
Birds, birds, birds (and sea lions).
Kenny G fills the ship’s speakers at 5:45 AM—the first of our wake-up calls—but I don’t hear it. I had gotten out of bed at 5:00 and was walking the decks, watching for the sunrise. Taylor couldn’t believe I had missed it…
3.
Santiago island.
There wasn’t much of a sunrise. Clouds clustered on the horizon, obscuring the view. Taylor was up early and I caught her on an upper deck cradling a mug of coffee as I lounged on the main. Above us, frigate birds flitted to and fro, flying from one nearby island to the next.
4.
In which we climb a volcano.
When we saw the call sheet we celebrated the later wake-up call, but I was still up before the dawn. When I came up on deck, Roberto was seated at the stern. He pointed a rock on the far shore and handed me his binoculars. “Penguins,” he said. “And flightless cormorants.”
5.
Iguana island.
In the morning I watched the rising sun fade Venus into the sky. From an upper deck I spotted Taylor taking her first cup of coffee on the main deck. She had her camera with her and we shot photos of each other taking photos of each other. We had settled into the rhythm of the boat and we were rested and ready for breakfast and for our first excursion onto Fernandina Island.
6.
Mangroves and more.
As the sun rose, I had a better view of the island I had spotted the night before. It looked like an iguana, resting on the horizon.
7.
All things must end.
In the morning we could see the town of Puerto Villamil off the bow. It was disappointing to see buildings and towers after having spent so much time away from civilization, but our cruise was nearing its end and we were in our first port since we departed.