Iceland
Chapter five
Reykjavík, Þingvellir, and the Reykjanes Peninsula.
May 21
Reykjavík.
I’m not sure why I hadn’t rushed immediately to see Fagradalsfjall on arrival. Perhaps it was a sense of the aggressive itinerary I had planned; perhaps it was because I felt I should do my best to quarantine as long as I could before engaging in activities, even if they were outdoors.
I had seen plumes of steam that had been pushed out from its eruptions while driving from the airport on my first day in the country, but it hadn’t occurred to me to see the eruption first. In the back of my mind, I assumed that the volcano would be erupting for a while and that I could always come and see it at the end of my trip. Thankfully, I was right.
First thing in the morning I drove to a Covid testing center. The US required a negative test to enter the country, and I chose a time that would give me adequate time to receive my results and still be within the acceptable window.
The Covid testing facility was highly efficient. Upon entering, I was given a vial and directed down a hall to the testing room. There, they took the vial, swabbed throat and nose, and put the collected sample in the vial. They thanked me and pointed me to the exit. I barely felt like I stopped walking.
Fagradalsfjall.
I drove back along the road towards the airport before turning off to the left, following a road that lead to the Reykjanes Peninsula. Finding the dirt road that led to the parking lot was a bit difficult, but once I did, I crept slowly over the volcanic dirt to find a spot. The lot was a makeshift one, created by the owner of the land. A sign let you know how to download an app to pay for parking.
The hike to the viewing point took about an hour. Along the way, I caught glimpses of the volcano from afar and of the lava fields that were spreading rapidly out from it. The volcano itself sounded like a jet engine passing when it erupted, and you could feel the heat from atop the mountain. Now and again you could feel what felt like sand spray your face.
The volcano erupted every 15-20 minutes. As we watched we could discern a pattern. The volcano would lie still, as if at rest, until the lava flow would start to increase and spill out of the cone. As the orange river grew in intensity we could see that the amount of lava being pushed out of the earth would begin to exceed what the river could hold and then it would be throw up into the air.
As the cooled rock fell back to earth we could hear it slam against the edges of the cone. It was a truly awesome sight, and I spent almost two hours watching the spectacle unfold again and again.
Þingvellir National Park.
Back in the car I drove Þingvellir National Park to Þingvellir Church where sat the Althing parliamentary general assembly met between 930 and 1798. I parked the car and walked the paths that wound in and out of the landscapes, enjoying the last days of my trip.
Reykjavík.
In Reykjavík, I washed up and prepared for dinner. I had a reservation at Dill, and when I entered I saw chef Freyr Vigfússon sitting with friends at a table. We nodded to each other as I was seated a few tables away.
Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason welcomed me and spoke about his interests in preserving traditional ways of farming and fishing alive. He lent me a book for the duration of my meal where I could read more about the people he works with to supply his kitchen. I was as fascinated by their stories as my taste buds were amazed by their produce and how chef Gíslason used it.
At the end of a fantastic meal he told me to skip the hot springs. He told me to go to the island that’s the northernmost point in Iceland and watch the sun kiss the horizon from there. As I left I bid adieu to chef Vigfússon. I’d see photos of the food he was eating on his Instagram stories when I was back home.
May 22: Reykyavik.
I spent the morning at home after picking up donuts from a nearby bakery. After packing and loading the car I drove out to the Reykjanes Peninsula to tour the sites there. I would be spending the night in a cabin near the airport. I had an early flight out and thought I could sleep an extra hour by moving closer.
The Reykjanes Peninsula.
I spent the morning at home after picking up donuts from a nearby bakery. After packing and loading the car I drove out to the Reykjanes Peninsula to tour the sites there. I would be spending the night in a cabin near the airport. I had an early flight out and thought I could sleep an extra hour by moving closer.
First I drove to the Hopsnesviti (Hopsnes) Lighthouse, picking my way down an unpaved road until I found it. As I drove further down the road in search of a pretty rock recommended by Yukwah, I came across a group of families picnicking on the coast.
Back on the main road, I stopped to admire the Brimketill lava rock pool and walk the bridge between continents, spanning the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. In Þingvellir National Park there are diving expeditions where you can touch each of the continents under water. I elected not to.
The Blue Lagoon.
From the peninsula, I drove to the hotel and checked in. They consisted of independent cottages set in a small crater. In the photos they look like they’re in the middle of nowhere, but they’re just on the other side of a small town.
I unpacked clothes for the evening and relaxed before heading to the Blue Lagoon, where I had booked some time and dinner. I had planned to come home afterwards, refreshed from my trip to get a few hours of sleep before my flight, but packed hiking clothes just in case. Fagradalsfjall wasn’t far from the Blue Lagoon and after having seen the eruption during the day, I was eager to see it at night.
I had been disappointed to learn that the Blue Lagoon was a completely man-made attraction, but fell under its spell when I arrived. The color of the water and the warmth were immediately soothing, as was the soft mud that filled the bottom of the lagoon.
I had paid for an advanced package, which included sandals, all three facial mud masks, and a glass of champagne. After getting used to the warmth, I waded over to get my first mask, letting the tiny grains exfoliate my skin, before wading to another side of the lagoon to pick up my glass of champagne.
The restaurant was a factory, serving a significant number of covers to groups as they passed in and out. The food was good, however, and I happily enjoyed my last meal in Iceland.
Afterwards, I couldn’t resist returning to the volcano. The sun wouldn’t set for hours and I could use the exercise. I drove back to the parking lot and proceeded to layer up. The viewing point was windy and it was chilly now that the sun had set.
It was close to 10:30 pm by the time I was ready to start the hike. People were coming down off the mountain even as other people were gearing up for the hike.
The lava field had grown since I had last hiked the route, and parts of the walk had shifted in the interest of safety.
I was excited to see the skies darken. Knowing it would never full night, I was still excited to see the glow of the lava against the black rocks in the dark.
I sat on the mountain overlooking the volcano watching eruption after eruption, each as awesome as the last, the heat washing over us with each new explosion. At one point the Icelandic monitors walked amongst the crowd to let us know they were leaving and for us not to do anything stupid.
Walking back, I kept looking back when I heard an eruption to see the plumes of smoke lit by the lava below. Figures stood silhouetted against the backdrop of the eruptions while the smoke created clouds in the night sky.
Airport screening.
At the airport the next morning I was pulled aside for extra screening. The chemical swabs came back positive and they asked me questions about how I might have come into contact with materials that would test positive in their machines. I couldn’t come up with a reason.
Finally, they asked if I had visited Fagradalsfjall recently. I told them I had been there that morning. We marveled at the spectacle occurring not so far from where we stood and then agent nodded and let me through. ✈️
