A couple of days & Christmas Eve in Tokyo.

I wake up at 0400 to messages from my cousin.

Her father isn’t doing well and they’ve decided not to come to Japan for our annual cousin ski trip. They’re sending the kids, however, and I tell her that I’ll take responsibility for shepharding their daughter to Singapore, where she’s going to spend the Spring semester abroad.

It’s a beautiful morning. When I finally get up out of bed the sun is shining and there’s not a cloud in the sky. I’ve decided to spend the first half of the day exploring the Yanesen area of town, to the east of where I am. I’ve found an udon restaurant that’s pretty highly rated on Tabelog and make that my first destination.

I walk to the subway station and take it to Ueno, navigating through the park to reach Nezu, one of the neighborhoods that make up the area. Along the way I pass the five-storied pagoda of the former Kan'ei-ji Temple rising up from the trees.

Nezu is a cute neighborhood, and I’m to learn that Tokyo is comprised of many of these disparate neighborhoods, each with their own flavor. I love walking the streets, especially when intersections don’t quite match up, one building edging out into where one might expect the road to continue.

I reach Nezu Kamachiku Udon restaurant before it opens. There’s one other person waiting but for some reason he’s not seated by the door. I ask if he’s waiting and he guestures for me to go ahead and I take the first spot in line.

As the opening hour approaches, the line grows, filling the bench and stretching out towards the street. A woman steps out check on numbers and then proceeds to seat us once the restaurant opens.

There’s a tofu dish that’s limited in number and so of course I have to order that in addition to my udon. It appears that most of the people who have arrived first do the same until it sells out.

The dining room looks out into a pretty garden that belongs to the nursing home next door, but I don’t see anyone enjoying it throughout the course of the meal.

The udon is delicous, the broth warms me up after waiting outside in the relative cold.

After lunch I step outside to call my cousin and see how she is. About as well as could be expected. We talk about logistics and I tell her I’ll adjust my itinerary so that it mirrors my niece’s. I’ll cancel some train tickets and hotels and book myself on the same flight as hers from Sapporo back to Tokyo. We’re already booked on the same flight to Singapore.

I continue walking through Nezu, through the crooked back streets that remind me a little bit of what Taipei I remember. Passing a small shop selling postcards I stop in and purchase a few before stopping in a coffee shop for a flat white.

I linger a while, addressing post cards, until the cafe starts getting busy, losing its relaxed vibe. I walk over to the nearby Nezu Shrine and pass through the complex before diving back into the smaller streets that comprise the majority of the area.

Towards the end of one section I smell freshly-baked goods and look up to see a sign for Log & Log Pastry Shop, a store specializing in baumkuchen. From the front door you can see the ovens in the back. I select a few rolls to sample later and pack them away in my bag, happy to have secured a treat for my future self.

I walk to the nearby Sendagi metro stop to take the train to Shimokitazawa, another neighborhood I had read about and wanted to explore. I’m criss-crossing the city a bit as I’ve gone from a place that’s to the northeast of where I’m staying to one that’s southwest. But the train doesn’t take too long and I almost manage to get a nap in before reaching my stop.

I love Shimokitazawa. It’s a warren of small shops and eateries, and I’m welcomed by the "Koinu no Ki" (Puppy Tree) sculpture shortly after I emerge from the station. For a while I’m happy to walk the streets and people watching, ducking into a store here and there that strikes my fancy, including one specializing in vintage Disney merch.

I wander south and then west, almost to the Setagaya-Daita Station before turning back. There’s an interesting mix of architecture in and around the hip area of the neighborhood.

Turning back I walk through シモキタ雨庭広場 park. A film of video is being shot and I’m ushered across the street so that they can begin the next take. There’s a cool-looking cafe on the second floor of a building overlooking the park and I wish I hadn’t already had a cup of coffee. It looks like a neat place to linger, and watch the trains go by.

Back at Shimo-Kitazawa Station I consider taking the train back home but it’s early yet and I have nothing planned for the rest of the day. There’s also more to explore in the area as I find another section of stores and shops, the streets mostly given over to pedestrians.

I see a vintage shoe store on the map and head up the stairs to check it out. The owner chats with me a bit and I marvel at his collection of shoes. Some of the brands and styles I remember from growing up, never having seen them again after they had been discontinued. It’s an incredible shop and I’m tempted to pick up some of the shoes I had wanted as a kid but never had the opportunity to own.

As I continue walking around the neighborhood, I marvel at all the stores that are focused on one item. I pass a Hot Wheels store and once again am reminded of my youth. I loved Hot Wheels cars (was never a fan of Matchbox) and seeing so many on display makes my younger heart almost burst with excitement..

Checking the map I decide to continue walking along the path of the train, intending to board when I get tired of walking. I’m eager to see more of Tokyo, more of the neighborhoods that make up the city, realizing that Tokyo is the sum of many parts rather than something that can be embraced whole.

The more I walk the more I’m encouraged to walk and I reach Shibuya just as it’s starting to get dark. I cross the Shibuya scramble and consdier taking the metro back home, but it’s only one stop and I feel like it’s not worth the cost for such a short trip.

I walk past Harajuku station and pause to look down the street. It feels less crowded than I remember it being. I also see no women dressed up in the outfits that were once associated with the street. I wonder if the culture has shifted or if it’s the hotspot that has shifted.

It’s the eve of Christmas Eve and at this hour Shinjuku is quieter than it was than the night I arrived. There’s also no planned event in the square. Looking up at one of the malls I’m in time to see the sign changes to Hello Kitty wishing me a Merry Christmas, realizing that I haven’t heard much Christmas music. The last time I was here Christmas music was everywhere. Now, it’s oddly quiet.

It’s Christmas Eve and I’ve booked an omakase dinner for myself to celebrate.

It’s a cold and rainy morning. I don’t feel much like exploring and so take the opportunity to run some personal errands. First up: a haircut. I find a nearby barber and rush out in the rain, trying to stay under awnings as much as possible. It’s a basic barbershop, two male barbers and a woman that cleans up. It’s 17 USD for a cut and and a wash and I love the results.

Back at the hotel I do laundry. It’s on the same floor as the spa and a parade of naked men walk in and out as I toss my laundry into a machine. Unfortunately, I forget some kleenex in the back pocket of my jeans and during the dry cycle wisps of tissues get tossed out of the vent, floating down like snow all over the area.

It doesn’t feel much like Christmas. I haven’t heard as much Christmas music as I had expected based on past experience, nor have I seen much in the way of Christmas decorations. This artificial snowfall turns out to be the one thing that puts me most in a festive mood.

I leave the hotel early for dinner. The rain has mostly stopped and I’m eager to get out of the house. I arrive much too early to be sat and so walk around Fukuromachi to kill time.

It’s a cute area of town, the main street lined with shops and restaurants. I’m surprised to see a ChikaLicious. I remember going to the dessert bar in New York city with my cousin, spending more on a dessert menu than we had spent on dinner. People are lined up in front of the shop picking up cakes to take home.

I’m the second to arrive at the restaurant and am sat at the far end of the sushi bar. I meet Haruka, a female apprentice that has been working for Chef Yoji Oya for about a year and a half. Later, in conversation Chef Oya will tell me the person who owns one of the pottery shops where he buys his cups and serving plates also connects young cooks with high end chefs. Not many people want to get into the food industry in Japan and the pottery business owner has taken it upon himself to make sure that traditions are passed down and that quality sushi restaurants continue to exist. So far he’s placed around 50 apprentices.

I ask Chef what’s next for him. He tells me it’s to get Haruka to start making sushi. How long will that take? Twenty-five years. They both laugh.

I ask him how he chose the size of the restaurant. It’s what one chef can support, he says. Will you expand once Haruka starts making sushi?. Maybe but in the future. He’s only had the place for 2 years and already has a Michelin star.

I admire the pottery and ask him where he gets it. He suggests a few places in the city, but he predominantly shops at the shop mentioned above. Unfortunately, it now only sells to sushi chefs.

I ask him what he eats when he comes back to Japan. It used to be ramen when he was younger; now it’s soba. I ask him what he looks for in a soba place. A firm noodle.

He’s a hip hop head and I ask him what he’s been lsitening to. He’s been listening to the 90s. Nas? Pharcyde? Yes and yes., he says, eyes lighting up. De La? Tribe? Yes and yes again. I mention De La has a new album out. So do Nas and Premier, he tells me. I haven’t listened to the latter yet and vow to give it a spin. He tells me he heads to the market around 07h or 08h. Deliveries come at 10h and he blasts music and cuts.

He asks me where I’m headed next. Hakodate. What should I eat there? It’s Christmas tomorrow. You should eat KFC, he laughs. But you’d have had to reserve weeks ago. Now it’ll all be sold out. I tell him that it doesn’t feel as Christmasy in Japan as it did 20 years ago. He agrees. He tells me that the earlier generations were more into it.

At the end of the meal he hands out his card. I thank him and tell him I hope to see him next year. He welcomes me back.

I take the subway back to the hotel. It’s quiet and relatively empty. The streets are quiet as well. I imagine everyone is home spending time with their loved ones. Most of the guests at the sushi restaurant were tourists compared to the all-Japanese clientele when I had eaten at the kaiseki restaurant in Osaka.

The plaza in front of the of hotel is empty and blocked off. I wonder if the cinema is full. Godzilla stares down at me from a banner on the side of the theater and I look up to wish him a Merry Christmas. He continues to stare at me mouth agape. I imagine hes smiling. Merry Christmas everyone! 🇯🇵