A walk along the Caspian Coast in Aktau.
Western Kazakhstan chapter oneThe last time I had seen the Caspian Sea I had stood on its western shores looking out over its vast expanse from the Azerbaijani capital of Baku.
Then, I had never imagined I would next stand on its eastern shore in the town of Aktau in western Kazakhstan.
I arrive just before midnight from Almaty. I had managed to sleep most of the flight, waking up for meal service and in time for the landing annoucements. The passengers beside me had fallen into a conversation after a shared laugh over something I didn’t understand. They chatted until we landed; I think they had started talking about sharing a cab into the city and I’d like to think they had made a love connection.
My bags were already on the belt (one of two) by the time I arrived at baggage claim. I pick it up and head to the exit where a small phalanx of drivers offer taxi services into the city. I say thank you but continue out of the airport and to the curb, walking beyond them until I can order a Yandex Go to my hotel.
Kuanysh asks me where I’m from and when I tell him he shouts out, 50 Cent! He fiddles with YouTube on his dashboard and after playing a Kane Victor track finds Dr. Dre’s Super Bowl LVI halftime show. I had forgotten Mary J. Blige had been a part of the show and I’m thrilled to relive it on the ride from the airport.
Anwar checks me into the hotel, surprisingly cheery for the late hour. I thank him and take the key and the elevator to the third floor where I find my room all the way in the back. I shower and wash my clothes,
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