A walk along the coast of the Caspian Sea in Aktau.

My bags were already on the belt (one of two) by the time I arrived at baggage claim. I pick it up and head to the exit where a small phalanx of drivers offer taxi services into the city. I say thank you but continue out of the airport and to the curb, walking beyond them until I can order a Yandex Go to my hotel.

Kuanysh asks me where I’m from and when I tell him he shouts out, 50 Cent! He fiddles with YouTube on his dashboard and after playing a Kane Victor track finds Dr. Dre’s Super Bowl LVI halftime show. I had forgotten Mary J. Blige had been a part of the show and I’m thrilled to relive it on the ride from the airport.

Anwar checks me into the hotel, surprisingly cheery for the late hour. I thank him and take the key and the elevator to the third floor where I find my room all the way in the back. I shower and wash my clothes,