Eating and drinking my way around Cape Town.
Wherever I go I have a list of restaurants, bakeries, cafes, and ice cream shops I want to try, and Cape Town is no different.
Back in March I had the opportunity to eat at Fyn, which was one of the best meals I’ve had this year. Coming back I was able to eat at Ramenhead, located on the ground floor below their flagship restaurant.
Then I also had delicious Cape Malay food at Barakat, chef Anwar Abdullatief’s outpost in the Time Out Market. And on this return trip I make out to The Happy Uncles, his take on fine-dining with a fantastic tea pairing.
When I had had dinner with my friends from Mana Pools they mentioned having had lunch at La Petite Colombe, the sister restaurant to La Colombe set in the winelands in Franschhoek. They loved it. They were having such a great time (and the lunch went so long) that they canceled their afternoon winery visits to linger over their meal.
La Colombe had been on my list but for some reason I hadn’t acted on it. After hearing my friends’ comments about La Petite Colombe I checked for reservations at the flagship and managed to secure one for lunch.
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The driver gets a little lost on the way to the restaurant but it’s not his fault. The GPS and directions on his phone are confusing and attempt to take us using a back route that doesn’t exist.
The drive itself from Cape Town into the winelands is beautiful, and once we find the front entrance we are let in and drive past vineyards covering the foothills en route to the parking lot.
I’m one of the first to be seated. My table faces the restaurant and the windows open out to the vineyards below and mountain beyond. It’s as close to sitting on an outdoor terrace as possible and I’m excited to begin the tasting.
The first snacks appear, delicate and served on dishes that could be art. Some items are created or finished at the table, and I enjoy hearing about each as its presented. A printed card comes before each course as well calling out the main ingredients of each dish.
I opt for the wine pairing and for their signature tuna dish the wine is poured into a black glass and I’m invited to guess what it is. I ask if it’s a Gewürztraminer. Close, the somm tells me. It’s a cousin. I can’t quite figure it out. It’s a Riesling. Once I hear it I slap my forehead in my mind. Of course! Though it’s a sweeter wine than I would have pegged for a Riesling.
The food is delicious and it’s a fun experience. In the end a picnic basket is brought out filled with roses. The lid contains photos of the staff. One rose is brought out, which holds the last dessert.
The washroom a woman introduces herself and asks if it’s my first time. In South Africa, no; at Colombe, yes. She’s come a few times and she tells me she enjoyed watching me eat; I looked like I so enjoyed the food. I tell her I did!
Leaving the restaurant one wall features signature dishes througout the years, including aspects of how they were plated. It’s like looking at a menu through time, and I wish I could travel back to sample some of the items of on menus past, not only for how tasty they sound but also how beautifully they were presented.
I call a cab to take me home. After the glasses of wine I need to sleep off my meal and I can’t say that I don’t nap in the car on the ride home.
On one of my few remaining days in town I head to the Old Biscuit Mill to have lunch at the The Pot Luck Club. Set in Woodstock, one of the oldest suburbs of Cape Town, The Old Buscuit Mill was once a factory for the Pyott’s biscuit company, which ran from the early 1900s to 1946. It’s now a creative hub sporting designer stores, artisan workshops, and food stalls.
The neighborhood itself is also seeing a rebirth as young professionals are taking advantage of the affordable Victorian homes, gentrifying what had become a run-down area of town.
I arrive early to my reservation and spend some time checking out the shops and galleries in the complex. There’s one piece that I like, but the price keeps it from being an impulse purchase.
It’s pretty quiet on a Thursday afternoon at the restaurant. I’m offered a choice of seating and opt to sit at the bar overlooking the kitchen. A film crew is shooting video and stills for what I imagine are marketing purposes. I ask for some recommendations and opt for one of the specials alongside a few items from the menu and a cocktail. When it comes time for dessert, I say yes.
My last night in the city I’m rewarded with a beautiful dusk. From the window of my apartment I have views towards the south east over the town. If I stand just so I can see table mountain to the west. I love the view out the window, being able to see the streets and activity. During the day a market fills the parking lot across from the Town Hall.
From where I stand it’s a peaceful scene, though I’ve already earmarked a different apartment for when I return next year. I’m curious to live in another part of town and see how it feels to be outside the city center, much as I’ve loved the building and the access it provides.
I’m happy to know that I’ll be returning. Firstly, to be able to visit my friend, and secondly, it’s thus-far it continues to be my favorite city in Sub-Saharan Africa. 🇿🇦
