Rambles around Bratislava.

From Vienna I tavel to Bratislava by bus. I sleep almost the entire way.

I get lost in the station, unaware I have to head upstairs into the mall that sits above the station in order to exit. A man helpfully points the way as he sees me wander into a dead end.

I walk the twenty or so minutes to my apartment, just inside the Old Town and sit for bit before deciding what to do. I’m tempted to take a nap. I had arrived in Austria just the day before and I’m still jetlagged and tired from the flight.

After a shower I head into the street in search of lunch. Eschewing the Old Town I head back the way I came to try a pizza place I had seen recommended on Reddit, followed by a matcha latte at a cafe recommended by someone else on the internet.

I linger over the latte, resting my feet, reading a book. It’s nice to take a break and remind myself that I don’t always need to be seeking out new experiences and touring a city, that being in a new city and sitting in a cafe reading a book is, in itself, a new experience.

But the urge to tour gets the better of me and so I check the map and walk in the direction of Michael’s Gate, the only remaining of the four that once served as the entrances to the city. Completed in the 14th century, it was named after the Gothic church of St. Michael, which once sat before the fortification.

En route I detour to take a look at the Grassalkovich Palace, the official residence of the President of Slovakia. Completed in 1760, it became a center of Baroque musucal life, being the site where Joseph Haydn premiered some works. The gardens behind the palace are now a public park.

From the palace I walk down towards the gate, crossing Michael's Bridge and passing a statue of Jan Nepomucky, patron saint of bridges and protector from floods. It’s a beautiful spot, one of the most beautiful in the city.

I cross into the Old Town and wander the streets to Františkánske námestie, a square named after the Franciscan monastery on its eastern side. The statue of one of Napoleon's army soldiers leans against a bench, but it’s not the most famous statue in the city.

That belogs to Čumil, a bronze statue of a sewer worker peering out from a manhole by Slovak sculptor Viktor Hulík. There’s a line of people waiting to have their photo taken with him. Installed in 1997, I read that it’s part of a series of humorous sculptures placed around the city, but I’m not sure what the others are.

I buy postcards from a souvenir store nearby and then look for a place to write. Winebar Vínimka is around the corner, and although I had told myself I wasn’t going to drink today, it’s the perfect place to sit.

I’m the only one there. Roman asks me where I’m from and I mention how surprised I am that the bar is so empty. He tells me that culturally people here are usually drinking beer at this time. I take a seat on the stone street before the bar and Roman pours me a local white wine that starts off a little cloyingly, but ends with a satisfying finish.

The outdoor seating fills up as I write. The couple next to me order a glass of champagne from a small producer. Intrigued, I ask Roman for a glass as I finish my last few postcards..

I walk towards St. Martin's Cathedral and turn towards Most SNP. Across the river I spy the UFO Tower, an observation deck and restaurant hovering 95 meters above the ground.

I check the time but decide to leave it for another day. I stop by a ramen place for dinner and finish the night with a gelato from I Nonni Cremeria, which turns out to be around the corner from my apartment..

The sun hasn’t quite set yet and I decide to take a stroll around the block to see what exists around me. Umbrellas hang above the alley before the Gallery Nedbalka and I pass under them before continuing to walk around the corner. I gravitate towards the Primacial Palace and the quiet square in front of it, pausing to take in the waning light of the day. 🇸🇰