Downtown Stockholm and the Vasa Museum.
When I tell people I’m headed to Stockholm, almost everyone tells me to visit the Vasa Museum.
In 1628, the ship Vasa foundered and sank in the harbor as it set out on its maiden voyage having traveled a scant 1,300 meters. The most powerful warship in the Baltic, it was designed for speed; but with the mathemematics to predict stability and speed a century in the future, shipwrights based their designs on experience.
The problem of the Vasa is that the upperworks fo the hull are too tall and heavy for the relatively small amount of hull below the waterline. This made the ship fast, at the cost of raising the center of gravity too far above the water so that even a light breeze would cause the ship to heel, which proved to be the case when it sank.
Ironically, the poor design of the ship has lead to its being the best-preserved 17th century ship in the world.
I begin my day in Hötorget, the town square. I don’t have a kitchen in which to cook, but seeing the fruits laid out I tell myself I’ll buy some blueberries on the way home. Passing a group of old men loitering by one of the stands I catch one pointing to me and overhear him tell his companion I’m sporting a Leica. I consider walking over to strike up a conversation, but I’m looking forward to treating myself to a coffee and a cardamon bun and continue walking.
I turn right from the square and walk towards one of the many islands that make up the Stockholm Archipelago, crossing one of the 57 bridges that connect the 14 islands on which the city is built.
At the Komet cafe I order a flate white, egg sandwich, and bun and take a table on the sidewalk. A couple is being photographed, but I’m not entirely certain if it’s an egagement shoot or one to create lifestyle stock photos. The photographer seems like they might be a friend, each doing favors for the other. She sits and chats for a bit before walking off, leaving the couple to their morning.
From the cafe I walk along the banks of a canal before crossing back to to the mainland further south. I love being able to walk alongside the water when in the middle of a city and I’m reminded of Paris and Seoul, the banks of the Seine and my recent walk along Cheonggyecheon.
I walk through the center of Stockholm, past large plazas bordered by gigantic shopping centers and smaller squares adorned with fountains and historic statues. The city handles juxtaposing the modern and historic well.
Nearing Nybroviken, the waterfront area known for grand architecture from the 19th and early 20th centuries and the launching point for sightseeing cruises, I wander down a pedestrian avenue where people sell wares on small folding tables. The waterfront itself reminds me a little of Zurich. The banks are lined with boats offering one excursion or another, patiently waiting for passengers.
The Vasa Museum sits on an island east of the bay, surrounded by a park. The ship is housed in its entirety within. I pay my admission and walk into the gigantic space. Along the walls there are three levels on which to walk to admire the ship.
I wander up to the second floor to take in the hull of the ship. Towards the rear there are intricately carved statuary; the entire rear of the ship beautifully carved. A set of stairs leads to a third-floor observatory for better views.
Along the corridors to one side of the ship stand a few additional figures painted in bright colors. On the other side of the museum are galleries full of additional artifacts salvaged with the ship. A small theater plays a film documenting the salvage efforts, including a long sequence on how they refloated the ship. I pause to take a look and end up staying to watch it in its entirety.
Before leaving I take one more lap around the ship, climbing to the second floor to take in as many details as I can. In the galleries I seek out a few last artifacts highlighted on the map that I had missed before.
Outside I check my phone. There are other museums and sights nearby, but I’m feeling tired and run down and decide to walk back to the hotel. I don’t realize it yet but I’m about to come down with a cold.
I walk back across the bridge to the mainland and choose a different street on which to walk as I head back west through the city, away from the bay. It’s great seeing a bit more of the city. I can feel my strength weakening and suspect I’ll be spending most of the next day recuperating. Little do I realize that I’ll be spending a decent amount of my time in Stockholm before heading to Norrköping mostly in bed.
Stumbling upon the Östermalms Food Hall I stop in to take a look at the wares. There’s so much I want to sample, but limit myself to an ice cream. I don’t have a fridge in which to store the cheeses I’d like to buy.
By the time I make it back to my neighborhood, the sun has just about set. The main streets are quiet, bathed in the cool blue light of dusk.
I love a city at dusk. Next to a city at night after a rain I think it’s the most beautiful way to see one. The city feels empty and I wonder where everyone goes on a Saturday night. Not central Stockholm, it would appear. Unfortunately, I’m in no shape to find out and head back to my hotel to rest. 🇸🇪
