A week exploring Tallinn, Estonia.

On Tuesday, I take a free walking tour of Tallinn. My cousin Alice had taken one in Cape Town and put the idea of them in my mind. Having taken one at the end of my stay in Riga, I decided this time to take one earlier in my stay in Tallinn.

I walk back towards the old town; it’s a much brighter day than the day of my introduction and the sun shines bright upon the ancient walls and cobblestones.

We’re to meet before the Town Hall in the main square, and I stand and watch as people enter and leave the square, wondering who will join this tour. In the end it’s a large group of students studying abroad in Finland, a man and his dog, a couple, and myself. The students are mainly from France with one German and one American. We talk about Finland and studying abroad and US politics as we wander behind the guide.

We walk to a number of the same places I had visited the weekend before, though sometimes by different paths. She shows us the main gate to the castle and talks about how people lived separate lives in the low city vs the upper city. She walks us to the castle and tells us that there’s a pretty ceremony at dusk when they lower the flag and the students talk about coming back to see it; unfortunately I have other plans.

The guide takes us to a different viewpoint than the one I had visited and we stop to gaze over the red roofs and spires of the town.

We pause in front of Cafe Maiasmokk, known as the oldest in town. It’s across from the Russian embassy and protest signs adorn the street.

Our guide leaves us back in the main square. We ask about lunch recommendations and she suggests a few places, one right before us. The students decide to try that place and I decide to head home. I change my mind once I reach the main street heading towards the gates and walk to Restaurant Rataskaevu 16, where I treat myself to a delicious lunch.

On Thursday I decide once again to play tourist, to fill in some of the gaps in what I’ve seen.

It’s another beautiful though slightly cold morning as I get up and head out to the old town. I walk again through the main gates and past the town square, pausing to enjoy the sun on my face in the open courtyard before moving on.

From the square I head west and then climb to the upper town. I’m headed to the Kiek in de Kök Museum and Bastion Tunnels, and when I reach the courtyard entrance I turn back for a fantastic view of the St Nicholas church tower.

I pay my admission to the museum and head up the towers, pausing to admire the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and another view of the church spires that rise above the red roofs of the city.

Heading back down I head towards the bastion tunnels. An attendant asks if I’ve toured the ramparts. I haven’t and she turns me back, telling me that the tunnels will leave me far outside the castle walls.

Walking along the ramparts I head to an exhibit of the artist studios. In the early spring, it’s a semi-cosy space; I imagine that it’d be a lot harder to paint within the stone walls in winter.

Heading back the way I came I return to the entrance of the bastion tunnels. It’s a bit creepy, being all alone in the tunnels and I am alert to possible surprises. There are exhibits that delve into various times in the history of the tunnels and their use as bomb shelters, ammunition storage, troop operations, enemy activity monitoring, and as a punk hideout.

A ghost story is written on a plaque in one of the sections; a glowing lady appears now and again on the walls.

I don’t know where I am when I emerge from the tunnels. It’s a large square on the far side of the castle and it takes me a minute to get my bearings. A large Ukrainian flag stitched next to an Estonian flag adorns the facade of one of the buildings on the square, a strong show of support for their neighbor.

I decide to eat lunch at a pizza place just off the square on a cobblestoned street that leads back toward the center of the old town. I debate whether to take a glass of wine with lunch until the waitress offers sparkling wine on the house. I can’t say no.

Walking back through the old town I decide to visit the Telliskivi Creative City just to the northwest. It’s a vibrant area, reminding me somewhat of Copenhagen. There’s an Elliott Erwitt exhibit at Fotografiska that I’d like to see and I enter its darkened rooms to admire his work.

Back outside I walk back in the direction of the old town. In a small park someone has set up a small exhbition of Mikk Olli’s photographs of the resistance in the United States against Donald Trump, his policies, and his presidency. Unfortunately, each day brings yet another outrage, still.

I pass the railway station headed back to the old town. It’s interesting how dramatically different each neighborhood looks. Walking from one to another is like passing through different eras in the city’s history.

Back in the old town I wander to the Kohtuotsa viewing platform. I wanted another look at the city and the opportunity to take some photos of the area I had missed before, including one of a poem stenciled onto a wall. Translated it reads:

I found myself
dreaming of moments
which
are now here

Back in the old town I walk back to St. Nicholas' Church and Museum to take the elevator to the top for the views and also to see the Dance of Death, considered “the best-known and most valuable medieval artwork in Estonia.” Our guide on Tuesday had mentioned it on our walking tour, but we didn’t have the time to stop in to take a look.

On my last day in Tallinn I retrace my steps from my first day in the city. I’m headed to the Estonia Maritime Museum, an institution I had only passed by on my way to dinner.

Inside the museum I tour The Lembit, one of two mine-laying submarines built for the Republic of Estonia before World War II. She was launched in 1936 and until she was hauled out on 21 May 2011, she was the oldest submarine still afloat in the world. Exploring it reminds me of my father, who would take guests to see the U.S.S. Nautilus when they would come to visit us in Connecticut.

Outside, I visit the Suur Toll and the Maru before walking towards Noblessner and around the port.

I decide to walk home from the port, following a new path as best I can, looking around corners and between buildings to see what I might discover, always on the lookout for art or artefacts. I lament the short time I’ve alotted Tallinn. I could easily spend another week or two here. I also start to wonder about digital nomad visas and wonder if Tallinn is a place I could move to. I should probably revisit in the winter when the days are short, but there’s something about the vibes that make me think I wouldn’t mind it one bit. 🇪🇪