Story: Sailing in the wake of polar explorers to the Ross Sea Antarctica.
After my trip to the Antarctic peninsula I became enthralled by the stories of Amundsen, Scott, and Shackleton’s Ross Sea Party. I started reading the books and decided I wanted to visit the Ross Sea, to see the historic huts where they stayed. I booked a trip with two weeks of returning. This is that trip, three weeks aboard Le Soléal.
21 January 2025 – 16 February 2025
I ask for a late checkout. I’m granted until 1100, after which it will be 35$NZ to stay until noon. I don’t ask how much it will be if I stay later.
It’s our first full day at sea. I’ve felt worse but I’ve also felt better. Last night I took a pill and decide to wait until lunch to take another. We’ll see how it goes.
I wake to the sounds of zodiacs being lowered into the water; gears wind, ropes slap the sides of the ship. It’s grey and overcast, the glass door wet from the passage if not from the rain.
By morning we’ve reached 54°35.48'S. We’re south of Cambpell Island and almost in line with Macquarie Island (though far to the east of it).
We’ve reached 70°24.32' S and are continuing south. The sunrise at our present position is at 03:14; the sunset will be at 23:57. Soon, the sun will cease to set.
At 08:41 we’re at 74°20.22' headed south at 13.6 knots. Terra Nova Bay sits to the starboard side, but too far to see. Later, I’ll learn that we’ve been sailing in the open sea to avoid ice and to increase our speed as we head towards Ross Island.
7.
Cape Evans, Scott’s hut, and emperor penguins on the fast ice.
We’re at 74°20.22' headed south at 13.6 knots. Terra Nova Bay sits to the starboard side, too far to see. Later, I’ll learn we’ve been sailing in the open sea to avoid ice and to increase our speed as we head towards Ross Island.
8.
Cape Royds, Shackleton’s Nimrod Hut, and a dance competition.
We wake up at 77°33.62' S, 166°11.37' E just off the coast of Cape Royds. Ernst Shackleton’s hut sits on the Cape, erected during his Nimrod expedition to be the first men to the South Pole.
It’s not yet 0700 when I wake up to an announcement from the Captain. There are orca off the port side. I’m not ready to get out of bed—let alone be conscious—but I’m not going to miss this.
I wake up in the middle of the night, tossing and turning. It’s not me; it’s the ship. We’ve hit large swells in the open sea.
When I wake up in the morning we’re at 73°15.25' S, 170°26.31' E near Coulman Island. We’re sailing towards Cape Halette and Cape Adare to the north. The skies are blue but clouds have begun to spread. By 10:00 it’ll be overcast.
I wake up to an announcement from the Captain. It’ll be a day at sea as we head to Balleny Islands.
The past days blur together and I’m becoming exhausted. The end of the cruise feels nigh, and while we’ve spent two days at sea, its not been without activities.
I wake up to another day at sea. We’re sailing north towards Snares Islands in hopes of an activity there. The sun is setting and the days are getting warmer.
It’s our final day on board. Our boots and life jackets are to be left outside our doors by 0900 for collection. A mandatory meeting is scheduled to instruct us on the disembarkation process. A final briefing is scheduled for the afternoon. It’s the least-fun day of the trip.